PART II (Zoology).

My visit to these most interesting islands was from May to 23rd December,
1889.  To Messrs. Broadhurst & McNeil I am indebted for passages to and
from different islands, as well as for much open-handed hospitality. while
Mr. F. C. Broadhurst, Mr. G. K. Beddoes, C.E. (manager), and other
employees of the firm have furnished me with many valuable notes gathered
of late years upon the groups, and which were impossible for me to
personally make during my limited sojourn.

Houtman's Abrolhos are certainly the greatest "rookery" for sea-birds in
Australia, and by reason of their geographical position in the sub-
tropics, perhaps afford suitable breeding grounds for a greater number of
species that any other distinct or limited spot in the world.  That the
groups have been resorted to for a untold ages by the birds is evidenced
by the rich deposits of guano — notably upon Rat and Pelsart islands.  Rat
Island may be said to be fairly alive with feathers.  They were birds
breeding upon the bushes, birds breeding under the bushes, and birds
breeding in the ground underneath.  Rat Island approximately contains 350
acres.  Deducting, say 50 acres, for the guano station and cleared ground,
and taking one bird for every square yard (there could not be less,
probably more, when young, and eggs are taken into consideration) the 300
acres would give 1,452,000 birds upon one island alone.  With their
success I took instantaneous photographs of some of the flights, but could
not take the birds when thickest, namely, at early morn and late evening,
the sun being unfavourable for the camera.  Of the wonderful flights of
noddies and sooty terns I need not speak, but could fully substantiate
Gilbert's accurate description as given in Gould.

I shall now proceed to enumerate the various species found upon the
islands, adding notes of interest on facts in their natural economy not
hitherto recorded.  Baron von Mueller, K.C.M.G. most kindly named the
plants for me.  The Rev F. R. M. Wilson identified the lichens, while four
species of lizards are still under the consideration of experts.

MAMMALIA.

* Halmaturus Derbianus, Grey (Derby's wallaby).  Found on the E.  and W.
Wallaby Islands (Northern group) only.

* Eustaria — —?  (seal).  Principally found on Easter and Pelsart groups but
now getting scarce.

* Mus — — (rat).  I was unable to procure a specimen for identification,
which may probably prove to be the common European rat introduced by some
shipwreck.

AVES.

* Haliaetus leucogaster, Gm. (white-bellied sea-eagle).  Not common. Eyries
are established on Wallaby (Pigeon Island) and Pelsart groups.  The noddy
tern constitutes a portion of this eagle's prey.  Breeds beginning
September.  Young do not assume adult plumage until second or third year.

* Pandion leucocephalus, Gould (white headed osprey).  More common than the
preceeding [sic] species.  One day, as the barque Capella was riding at
anchor in Good Friday Bay each of the mast heads was occupied by one of
these noble birds.  In addition to fish the osprey is very partial to the
little white-faced storm petrel and a rough tailed lizard, upon Rat
Island.  Lay in September.

* Hirundo neoxena, Gould (welcome swallow).  Noticed flying over Pelsart
Island.

* Sericornis maculatus, Gould (spotted scrub tit).  Found only on Wallaby
group.

* Zosterops Gouldii, Bp. (Green backed white eye).  Found in pairs
throughout the groups.

* Phaps chalcoptera, Lath (bronzewing pigeon).  Wallaby group.

* Turnix scintillans, Gould (speckled turnix-quail).  Wallaby group.

* Haematopus longirostris, Vieill (white-breasted oyster catcher).  Few
pairs throughout groups.

* Haematopus unicolon, Wagl (sooty oyster catcher).  Seen occasionally.

* Aegialatis ruficapilla, Tenem (red-capped dottrel).  A few always upon the
islands where they breed.

* Tringa albescens, Tenem (little sandpiper).  In small flocks about the
beaches.  Retire inland to rest at evening, when they often co-mingle with
the former species.

* Tringa subarquata, Gmel (curlew sandpaper [sic] ).  Singly or in twos or
threes about the shores.  But none observed in full plumage.

Strepsilas interpres, Linn (turnstone).  This cosmopolitan was observed in
flocks of 6 or 7 about the reefs at low water, but scarcely in adult
plumage.

* Numenius cynopus, Viell (Australian curlew).  Noted at Wallaby group.

* Numenius uropygialis, Gould (wimbrel).  Small flocks seen at the mangrove
swamp, Pelsart Island, 23rd December.

* Demiegretta sacra, Gmel (reef heron).  Both the blue variety and white
found throughout the groups.  Breed November.

* Hypotaenidia Philipensis,  Linn (pectoral rail).  Seen upon Rat and
Pelsart Islands.  Known to breed upon latter.

* Porzana sabuensis, Gmel (Tabuan crake).  Pelsart Island, about the
mangrove swamp.

* Anas castanea, Eyton (Australian teal).  Wallaby group.

* Larus Pacificus, Lath (Pacific gull).  Odd couples breed throughout all
groups.  Laying commences early September.

* Larus Longirostris, Masters (long-billed gull).  Common.  Breeds in
September.  Have been witnessed plundering the noddies of their eggs,
especially if nearly incubated.  The gulls also rob these peaceful birds
of the contents of their stomachs when spread out for their mates or young.

* Sterna Caspia, Pall.  (Caspian tern.) Seemed in small companies about the
reefs or singly diving to fish about the harbour.  Fledglings seen 15th
December, also fresh egg taken same date.  Young in down white underneath,
mottled with black and brown above.

* Sterna Bergii, Licht.  (Common tern.) A few breed upon Pelsart island.
Young in down similar to Caspian tern.

* Sterna Dougalli, Mout.  (Graceful tern.)
Nesting in scores upon the dead coral ridges in the narrowest half of
Pelsart island.  December appears to be the laying month.  Young in down
under surface white, wings white, and rest of upper surface mottled black
and white with slight brownish tinge.  Feet and bill light pink.

* Sterna anaestheta, Scop. (Panayan tern.) In small companies of 10 or 12,
or in pairs, breeding under shelving limestones, sometimes under bushes,
chiefly on isolated rocks.

* Sterna juliginosa, Gm. (Sooty tern.) The "wide-awakes" first appear in the
beginning September upon Rat and Pelsart islands, when they come in vast
numbers for about a fortnight.  When the young are reared all depart about
April.  Their call note sounds like "wide-awake;" hence their vernacular
name.  A long gutteral scream appears to be the alarm note while "squak"
like notes are uttered in anger.  Young in down, underneath parts (except
throat) whitish, all the rest of the surface mottled with black, brown and
white.  Feet and bill dark coloured.

* Sternula nereis, Gould.  (Little tern.) A few couples found breeding upon
dead coral on Pelsart island in close proximity to the graceful terns.
Young in down dull or yellowish white.  Bill and feet light yellow.

* Sternula inconspicua, Masters.  A pair noticed in company with little and
Caspian terns near Rat island.  A skin was obtained, which appears to
correspond with Masters' description, although some authorities believe it
to be a different stage of plumage of the little tern.  But this can
hardly be, seeing the young of the little tern from the time they are
hatched possess yellowish-white bill and feet, whereas Masters' tern has
dark coloured bill and feet.

* Anores stolidus, Leim.  (Noddy tern.) Records kept upon Rat island showed
that these birds first appeared for the breeding season August 14, 1888,
and August 16, 1889, respectively.  They are usually first heard at night
and then appear gradually for a few days before they arrive in great
crowds.  The earliest eggs are deposited about the beginning of October,
but laying continues for the two or three following months.  About the
breakup of the weather in April all the noddies with their young depart.
Not a solitary bird remains.  A week or two prior to the first exodus the
birds leave the island daily, but return at night.  This may be a method
of exercising the young before the last great flight.  There is a curious
incident of all these birds having suddenly left Rat island for about a
fortnight during the month of October when cold rain set in, leaving eggs
and young to perish.  Upon slight showers of rain falling, the birds clear
out to the shoals upon the reefs, and skim over the water in a remarkable
manner, as if fishing.  The call note of the noddy is a coarse, gull-like
bark.  Young in down vary in colour from light to dark sooty brown, with
the upper portion of the head mouldy white.  Bill and feet black.

* Amores longirostris, Tenem.  (Lesser noddy.) As its name implies, it is
similar in appearance but smaller than the noddy, yet in one or two points
of its natural history differs much.  Unlike the noddy, which nests upon
low bushes or upon the ground, the lesser noddy seeks mangrove trees, and
then only upon one island (Pelsart) out of all the groups although
mangroves exist elsewhere.  Then, again, the lesser noddy remains
throughout the year, whereas the noddies' visits are periodical.  The
first eggs may be observed the beginning September, but the climax of the
breeding season is not reached till December.  Young in down sooty black,
upper part of head mouldy white.  Bill and feet black.

Now that a successful guano depot has been established upon Pelsart
island, no doubt in time the limited supply of mangrove trees will be used
for fuel.  What, then, will become of the extraordinary flights of the
lesser noddies as they go to and from their fishing grounds?  I trust the
photographs I took may not soon be the "light of other days."

* Puffinus nugax (?) Sol.  (Allied petrel.) I am not quite satisfied about
the identity of this petrel although it closely resembles P. nugax.
Professor McCoy, to whom I submitted a skin, shares my doubt.  If it be P.
nugaax then it has never been reported from the Western side of Australia,
nor has it been recorded nocturnal as the Abrolhos bird certainly is.  I
took my specimen flying about Rat Island the midnight of 9th December.
They have also been known, attracted by the light to fall into the fires
of persons camping upon the islands.  They breed in underground burrows in
July and appear to rear their young and depart in time to accommodate the
following species.

* Puffinus sphenurus, Gould (wedge tailed petrel).  I have the pleasure of
announcing this petrel also nocturnal in its habits.  It is somewhat
extraordinary that such a peculiar trait in the bird's character should
have escaped Gilbert's notice.  About half an hour after sundown they
commence moaning and get uneasy in their burrows and shortly afterwards
birds may be seen swiftly cutting the air in many directions.  The moaning
and cat like cries of the wage-tailed petrel are a curious experience.
After a ramble, one quiet night, I noted in my pocket book next morning
that "the whole island seemed groaning and travailling in pain with the
noise of mutton birds."  Sometimes the roofs of the guano station struck
with terrible force by the birds during flight.  About half an hour before
sunrise they disappear underground, when all is quite as far as they are
concerned.  The attitude of this petrel upon ground resembles a duck upon
water, a squatting posture.  When walking they are assisted by their wings
which give the bird a waddling or lame gait.  The burrows generally extend
2 or 3 feet in an oblique direction, rarely more than 5 feet.  Sometimes
they deposit their single eggs in holes or fissures of rock, while more
than once eggs have been taken from under bushes.  The eggs, like those of
the noddies and other birds, are excellent eating, not all fishy in
flavour as may be supposed.

* Procellaria fregata, Linn (white-faced storm petrel).  December 15, found
young about 10 days old in burrows upon Beacon Rock near Rat Island.  They
were clothed cash in long blueish-grey down with dark naked head and bill,
feet also dark coloured with legs yellowish white.  After death an amber
coloured oil exudes freely from the beak.

* Phaëton candidus, Briss (white tailed tropic bird).  An occasional visitor.

* Phaëton rubricanda, Bodd (red-tailed tropic bird).  Seen occasionally on
Rat Island during calm weather.

* Graculus varius, Gm.  (pied cormorant).  Frequent the bays and breed in
numbers upon isolated rocks.

* Pelecanus conspicillatus, Tenem.  (Australian Pelican).  Have been known
to breed upon Pigeon Island (Wallaby group) chewing September.

REPTILIA.

* Morelia variegata (?) (carpet snake).  Found only on Wallaby group.  Said
to be a darker variety than that found on the mainland and not so lively
in movements.  Maximum length about 9 feet.  Supposed to be non-venomous.

1.  Lizard, 17 inches long, of a dark mottled green.  Underneath parts
dull greenish white.  During the season these reptiles devour many of the
eggs and young of the noddy and sooty terns, when their skin assumes a
darker hue, but whether this be from the change of food or merely a summer
coat has yet to be proved.

2.  Lizard, about 8 inches long with stumpy rough tail.  Colour, Brown
with seven or eight indistinct or irregular transverse rose of yellowish
white spots.

3.  Lizard, about 9 inches, striped laterally with alternate lines of
brown and dirty white.  Run with amazing rapidity.

4.  Lizard, small without feet, about 4 inches long.  Yellowish colour
with brown lateral stripes.  Underneath parts white.

PLANTS.

Acacia —? Avicennia Officinalis, Linné (Mangrove); Spinifex logifolius, R.
Brown; Plantago varia, R. Brown; Nitraria Schoberi, Linné;
Mesembrtianthemum aequilaterale, Howarth (Pig-face weed); Malva
rotundifolia, Linné; Frankenia laevis, Linné; Spergularia rubra, Persoon;
Setaria —? Solanaceolus —? Bromus arenarius, Labilt; Senecio lautus,
Forster; Chenapodioum murale, Linné; Atriplex cinereum, Poiret (Salt-
bush); Therlkeldia diffusa, R. Brown; Salicornia arbuscula, R. Brown;
Euchylaena tomentosa, R. Brown.  Lichens Lecidea —? Theloschistes
parietmus: Verrucaria —? Physcia picta.

[Note, — All these plants with the exception of Acacia were gathered on
Easter & Pelsart Groups.]

in the year 1527, when he touched on the west coast and gave the name of
Abrolhos to a group of islets which lie off Champion Bay.  So runs the
Year Book.  Then Australia was known only 35 years after Columbus
discovered America.

In the year 1598 Frederick Houtman, a Dutchman who projected the Dutch
East India Company, coming upon the Abrolhos, bestowed his own name upon
them instead of that of the brave Portuguese who discovered them.

In 1629 Francis Pelsart and his company were shipwrecked upon Houtman's
Abrolhos.  Of this historic and may I add romantic wreck a few words may
be said in passing.  The East India Company, animated by the return of
five ships richly laden, under Carpenter, caused to be equipped for a
similar voyage eleven other vessels, which sailed out of Texel on the 28th
October, 1628, Captain Pelsart in command.  His vessel, the Batavia,
carried about 250 souls, of them about 150 were intending colonists, the
rest sailors, soldiers, &c. On the 21st May following, when in the South
Indian Ocean, a great storm overtook the fleet.  The Batavia alone
survived.  The other ten vessels disappeared and were never heard of more.
 Pelsart pursued his lonely course till the Batavia, the night between the
4th and 5th June, struck heavily on a coral reef near the South extremity
of a long islet in the Southern groups of the Abrolhos.  This particular
islet now bears Pelsart's name, likewise the group in which it is
situated.  With one or two exceptions the wrecked company all reached
land.  

At the earnest request of the people, Pelsart fitted up a boat and
went in search of water.  On the 9th June he reached the mainland, but not
obtaining the needed element he coasted northward.  After 100 miles had
been placed between himself and the scene of the wreck and still without
the necessary supply of water, Pelsart deemed it advisable to push on to
Java for relief, and reached that island about the end of the month
(June).  The Governor gave Pelsart command of the Saardam.  He departed on
the 15th July to rescue the survivors of the ill-fated Batavia, if happily
any remained alive.  During Pelsart's enforced absence, the scenes of
bloodshed and treachery which were enacted amongst the castaways upon the
Abrolhos whereof the most revolting nature and beyond description.  The
supercargo — one Jerome Cornelis — turned out to be an arch-fiend
incarnate.  He was on convert to hear wreck about nine weeks before it
finally broke up, and eventually came ashore after floating about two days
upon a spar.  Cornelis determined to capture any relief vessel that might
arrive, convert her into a privateer and decamp with the Batavia's
treasure of silver.  In the first place, by clever scheming, he was
elected "Captain General" of the island and created laws to suit his own
ends.  

One Weybhays, with 45 men, was sent out to look for water, which
was found on Middle Island by digging two wells.  On his return he found
that Cornelis had butchered between 30 and 40 of his opponents, while
others had despersed themselves to the adjacent islands.  Cornelis on his
bloody career determined to follow the fugitives, and then to attack
Weybhays, who had taken up a position on Square Island.  On the nearest
island (probably a portion of Pelsart, because there are evidences of it
having been divided in those days) all the weakest were killed except five
women (retained as mistresses for Cornelis and his officers) and seven
children.  The total murdered now numbered about 125, one scoundrel, John
Bremen, having slaughtered, or assisted to slaughter, no less than twenty-
seven persons.  After several futile attacks upon Weybhays’s (?) position
(?), Cornelis was himself captured and made prisoner.  

When Cornelis's followers were about to make a final swoop upon Weybhays to rescue their "Captain General," the Saardam, with Pelsart on board, arrived.  Weybhays, with some of his party unobserved by the mutineers was the first on board, and informed his master of the dreadful state of affairs.  The mutineers, supposing to surprise the ship, followed armed to the teeth, and dressed
in splendid red uniforms broached from the Batavia's cargo.  But when they recognized Pelsart's voice commanding them to throw their arms overboard, they obeyed, fear-stricken, and were soon court marshalled and strung up at the yard-arm with the rest of the traitors that remained on the island, including "Captain-General" Jerome Cornelis.  The loyal survivors were then rescued, and after recovering jewels and fishing from the wreck five out of the six chests of silver, Pelsart finally quitted the Abrolhos on the 28th September, 1629.

Captain Daniel, in the London, of the Honourable the British East India
Company, reported he saw the Abrolhos shoals June, 1681, while eleven
years subsequently the celebrated British navigator, Captain William
Dampier, on his second voyage to new Holland, in a vessel called the
Roebuck, struck a reef on the northern group.

Then about 1727 the Dutch man-of-war Zeewyck came to grief at a spot not
far from the scene of Pelsart's disaster.  The crew repaired to a small
island, where they were able to build a boat from the fragments of the
wreck, whereby they reached Java in safety.  The small island was
subsequently called Gun Island, on account of Captain Wickham, R.N., when
surveying, having found a small brass four-pounder thereon as well as
other articles of Dutch manufacture.  At the Perth museum, I saw some old-
fashioned dark green schnapps bottles supposed to be from the same
historic wreck.  They resembled squat hock bottles, but are of irregular
shape and much sand-blown after their exposure for over 150 years.  The
Hon John Forrest, C.M.G., the President of the Anthropological section of
the current Congress of this Association, on visiting Gun Island in 1882,
found two coins bearing dates 1720 and 1722 respectively.

Captain Wickham, R.N., in H.M.S. Beagle, surveyed Houtman’s Abrolhos in
1840, having on board Gilbert, the naturalist and able coadjutor of Gould.

The following epitaph is the only record of a wreck that took place in the
early "fifties": — "Here lieth the body of John Williams, who died April,
1851, on the wreck of the schooner Venus, aged 41," which is nearly
illegible now, and inscribed on a rough board upon Middle Island, Pelsart
Group.

Again the islands remained undisturbed, except by occasional hunting
parties from Champion Bay and the wreck (without loss of life) of the
Benledi, an iron barque, bound from Melbourne to Calcutta about 1879, till
1880, when the enterprising firm of Messrs. Broadhurst & McNeil determined
to test the quality and quantity of their guano deposits.  They planted
their depot on Rat Island, in the central group, and, since, and other
upon Pelsart Island.  The results of the last four seasons' export in
phosphatic guano, of excellent commercial quality, is no less than 24 ship
loads, or 18,000 tons, valued at about £80,000, and upon which the West
Australian Government has reached the handsome royalty of £7500, and, like
the Peruvians of old, with the expenditure of little or no revenue.

I shall now, as briefly as possible, describe Houtman's Abrolhos, with
occasional reference to Captain Wickham, Admiralty surveyor, and others.

The Abrolhos are separated from the mainland by the Geelvink channel, from
30 to 45 miles wide.  There are naturally three distinct groups of islets,
rocks, etc., extending N.N.W.and S.S.E. about 50 miles, varying from 10 to
13 miles across.  

1st — Wallaby Group, so named on account of a species of
marsupial being found on the two largest islands.  Zoologically and
botanically, perhaps, the Wallaby Group is the most interesting.  I
regretted I was unable to visit it.  The existence of Wallaby, which are
numerous, is very curious.  Large snakes of the carpet variety, and
therefore non-venemous, are equally plentiful.  The highest part of the
islands is on East Wallaby, about 50 feet above sea level.  Upon this
island Messrs. Broadhurst and MacNeil [sic] turned out several goats in
1888.  

2nd, Easter Group, this is the most central, being separated on
the north from Middle Channel, 9 miles wide, and on the south from Pelsart
by Zeewyek Channel, four miles across in narrowest part.  Rat Isle, ¾ mile
long by 1/3 broad, the largest of the Easter Group, is a place of close
limestone formation with a summit of only 13 feet.  Its surface descends
to overhanging cream-coloured limestone cliff, 6 or 7 feet high.  The soil
is wholly composed of phosphatic guano which sustains saltbush (Atriplex),
Nitraria, &c.  The usual coral reef surrounds that isle, together with
other islets and rocks near, notably Wooded Island with a small lagoon and
mangroves.  The harbour at Rat Isle is Good Friday Bay.  According to the
Admiralty guide, Good Friday Bay (the guano station) "is a secure harbour
affording anchorage for a large number of vessels of any draught," while
all captains of vessels who have loaded there report most favourably of
the port.  

3rd, Pelsart Group is something like Easter.  Pelsart or Long
Island is a narrow ridge of coral and limestone, about 200 yards to half-a-
mile broad extending between 11 and 12 miles in length.  About midway are
swamps sustaining clumps of mangroves in some places 15 feet high.  Upon
this island there are recent evidences of silting up, especially of the
dead coral ridges, and as previously mentioned no doubt the land was
divided in Pelsart's day — over two and a half centuries ago.
 
W. J. Gordon's pleasant story of the "Captain General," and more matter-of-fact
accounts of the wreck point to the fact in Over-the-Way Island.  Square
Island, where Weybhays held out, is six miles from the nearest part of
Pelsart.  The next two largest islands of this group our Gun and Middle
Islets, about 2 1/2 miles in extent each.  Drinkable water from Wells is
obtainable upon the latter.  At the guano depot, at the southern end of
Pelsart Island, a jarrah pier is in course of construction in a secure and
splendid day, however, yet unnamed.  Charles Edward Harbour, now recorded
for the first time, has been suggested.  The name is very appropriate,
being the Christian names of an early pioneer of Victoria and senior
partner of the firm of Messrs. Broadhurst & McNeil.  The name, of course
will be submitted to the Admiralty and to be charted.

Generally speaking, the basis of all the islands, rocks and reefs of
Houtman's Abrolhos is formed of limestone, chiefly consisting of coral and
shells, all the islands on the east side of Easter and Pelsart being
merely ridges of the dead coral and shells, some of which present the
curious effect, when in the shining sun, of appearing like a limb of a
moon rising above the horizon, while the islets on the west side are flat
blocks of limestone, pushing themselves, like great mushrooms, about five
feet above the sea level and sustaining stunted and scant vegetation.
These islets, in turn, are protected by the outer or an extended barrier
reef over whose flat surface foaming spray-crested billows chase each
other in rapid succession with thundering roar in calm or tempestuous
weather.  No wonder such a terrific spectacle struck terror into the
hearts of mariners, especially if they found themselves on the weather
side.  When upon the serene islet at the guano station, often did I watch
the great orb of day sink into the Indian Ocean behind the long silvery
horizon of surf, and with the distant, sullen roar of the breakers
sounding in my ears, I found myself almost in an idolatrous mood,
repeating Billeter’s beautiful part song: —

"Farewell, oh Sun! thou goest in glory to repose;
And, gazing at thy splendour, my wistful eyes I close."  —

instead of lifting up my mind to Him who made the sun to rule by day and
the moon by night.  At such a time too curious thoughts crowded upon my
senses while contemplating the reality that I stood actually upon or near
to the earliest discovered heart of our great Austral heritage, and I
thought of those who had been here — the brave Menezes, 1527; the
egotistical Houtman, 1597; Francis Pelsart, 1629; the great, but badly-
treated Dampier, 1699; and the lamented naturalist, Gilbert, 1840.