16 - 23 Aug 1969
Left Derby by Air Charter Beechcraft for Walcott Inlet, Augustus Island, N. W. tip of Prince Regent Reserve and up the Prince Regent River
Photos: colour starts at 03, B&W starts at 01.
03 Mount Grey - north of Glenelg looking SouthWest across the George Water
04 Looking up the Prince Regent R.
05 Looking down towards the Sea
06 Mt Trafalgar
07 Mt Waterloo on uu
02 Shots of the formations
b&w 1-3 cliffs from the NW
Warburton sandstone---------Vertical sequence from west to east
Chardan(?) sandstone---------in Central Kimberley
King Leopold Sandstone ----
b&w 04 looking south along body of River(?)
05 Fall in S side in spot light 150
Cadjeputs start off tyifeatin(?) B&W
Gorge. photo C12 & b&w 8
Vicinity Mt Agnes
C 14 Mt Hann b&w 9
C 15 Mt Hann looking down Prince Regent.
My general impression on flying up this time is that the best place to do a survey would be at the large pools a short distance upstream from the main bifurcation above the mangroves. This is the place where the deep fresh water pools with cadjeputs are and not far from the gorge with the waterfall on the south side of the river. There was much smoke haze but the view looking across Mt Agnes to Mt Hann is equal to any of the Blue Mountain Park shots that I have.
Landed at Gibb River. Ears very sore and almost completely deaf. Met by the three vehicles with Max English (Pertrail Inspector), Brian Jones (field assistant at Subiaco), Serge St Jorre (S. Snowy(?) hed / driver). Went on to Gibb R. Homestead where we met Leslie Russ (son of Fred Russ).
> 17th August Sunday
Camped at Drysdale R. crossing of the old track 70 m. N. of Gibb R. Homestead. very cold night 40* beautiful & clear, river flowing a wonderful place with closed savannah woodland. Birds calling.
Spoke to Anne *WXT though WJB (Mrs Keysey - operator) decided not to go in. Track rough would take 3 1/2 hours - means loss of a day which we cannot afford.
Left at 0815hrs after sched. Hopped out at various points to collect plants. 83.5 patch of cabbage palms took photos C18, C19 of typical grey box, messmates and woollybutt complex. 84.7 Stopped again & took photos C20, 21 of Livistonia & 2 b&w.
Stopped Macdonald Creek for lunch, speedo 125.0
Collected small fish in pool though sandstone country. Bert collected 2 Crinia ; missed a Hyla and Cyclosema
Temp 88*F. Changed landrover 159.0 about 3 miles on, stopped at sandstone outcrops collected a small ?Abdophus 18 & took photo of small mini-type figure with beloons, only one other small pictograph - the head of a small Wandgina better part obliterated.
379.1 Arrived Morgan River. We had earlier crossed a small branch of it across the road where I collected a small hytid for Bert Hyle. He got several small Crinia at the same place. He collected a Gecko for me Diplodactylis [20].
Went down to the river. A beautiful place wth deep pools between rocky walls. John Morgan(?) took a photo for me with his camera. The boys went fishing & caught Bream and a Spangled Perch [20, 1]. went spotlighting & saw small Crocodylus johnstoni (red eyes) and another Kyle which I caught for Bert. A difficult place to find.
> Monday 18th August 1969
Up before dawn, a beautiful night, clear and cool with a slight dew.
Sent telegram to M. via Wyndham to let her know all O.K.
Transferred back to Max's landrover speedo is ready very low. 144.8
Back at road Dingo, very big eared and long-legged compared with southern dogs. Track north to the gap between sandstone walls C26. Met Gilbert Dayes Mayor of Theda Stn. Drove down to big pool in the morgan. Took photos C26-27 then back to the homestead. Met Mrs Dayes who gave us a cup of tea, 2 children Stephen 6 and another boy 3. Then on to another creek nearby to look at a place called the tunnel(?). A pretty place but not a patch on the pool.
Drove on C28-29 of the Carson Escarpment. No signs of any reptiles anywhere. 185.9 Camped for lunch at foot of the escarpment. A few willie willies about. Drove along the Carson. Lot of wattle about but country looks good. A great deal of water in the river. Saw an emu and joey at foot of escarpment. Found spot for camp at "Cattle Gap" soon after Gilbert Dayes joined us. This a wide pool with rocks in it. Brother Dannie joined camp with a party of natives. Looked round with a spot light on for croc eyes over on the other side. A few ?Hyle calling in the Pandanus but could not find them . Small Macrobrachium crawling around in the bottom. No sign of nemmls(?).
Brother Dannie told of a place with good cave paintings along the Barton River where it joins the Drysdale. He also says that Father Senz(?) knows of some very large engravings somewhere along the Drysdale.
Turned in about 9.30 & glorious clear night with stars v. bright.
> 19th August. 1969 (Tuesday)
Camped on Carson River at Cattle camp. Took C32, 33, 34 down the pool - photo for John Morgan who has rewound(?) his camera.
A beautiful morning, only just warm enough last night even with sleeping bag and fine blankets.
Arrived at Kalumburu. The country(?) & mission(?) looks wonderful. They are clearing about 1000 acres to plant with Townsville lucerne. Met Father Basil and Father Wilfred (who is in charge with absence of Father Samy [Seraphim]. Brother John was his usual gently spoken self : enthusiastic about his garden which has wonderful crop of Paw-paw, pineapple, bananas, beans, capsicums, tomatoes.Went down with Bert to the junction of the creek and the river to show him the patch of tall closed forest(?) (viz the argument between Royce-Grieve and Specht re the existence of tall closed forest in Kimberley). Bert agrees that the patch is being correctly interpreted by me and that it is dominated by a combination of stock and floods which has destroyed the industry of gardens and town trees which would have closed the canopy. Relieved to hear this comment typical - 'Have they even been up here' - nothing else !
Went back to have lunch, a real feast with pork cutlets, magnificent vegetables, baked potatoes and slices of steak. All washed down by their home based lolly water. Pawpaw wonderful.
Father Basil has a very interesting sequence of behavior(?) and home ecology. He says that old Father Rosendo saw 600 fighting men of each of two principal tribes, and 200 of the other. There was then a great cholera epidemic (presumably this was the plague spoken by others as the flu of 1919/20). This left a great shortage of people with the result that the marriage rules almost entirely left the old women to the young men and the old men had all the girls. This combined with indecision(?) left very few children. Must check with Ian (Carmichael?) and Ron Berndt(?).
Went and had a talk with the schoolmaster - he is doing well and is busy.
For the last two years they have been selly(?) beset and now have a good income - what a change in atmosphere and attitude there is in place.
Left after lunch for the Carson. Back down the track to Theda
Turn off to east (ie to left just after a signpost saying Theda 6 & just before Drysdale R. crossing). Followed the Carson around and crossed it twice and camped on the second crossing. Took photos C10, 11, 12, 13 of the Carson and the Escarpment at 275.
Camped in a stony flat to the West of the river, crocodiles plentiful. Caught 1 small one by hand under a small rock ledge. Will try to get him back alive to Perth for Reg Bond to give to the zoo. Also caught a small Euychina (?): australis and a hyla [23]. Shot a small Chilmolobin rogersi ; two one flying immediately after sundown[22] in good light over the river. Also saw a larger and swifter bat just as it got really dark.
After getting the bat I found that Athol had made an error over the formalin and that it was grossly understrength. Lost the Diplodactyl[no.20] and the two fish [21] fortunately the frogs although soggy were not gone completely and was able to save them with alcohol provided by Bert. To bed very angry at such complete incompetence. A red glare of fire all along the southern horizon.
> 20th August 1969 (Wednesday) Left camp after a good breakfast, beautiful clear morning. A smoky haze all the way along the escarpment to the East of the River - very rough basalt country which the 'dozer had graded a track through the broken foothills. Two too muspods, a dingo (young and inquisitive) and a couple of Julium, very little life and the entry as black as soot. Drived at the river at a large pool near Creek, just about to see if crossing possible or soleten it on possible to move further upstream. Decided to camp.
About 11 am set off on bearing of 350* across river and up over broken sandstone wanting to find paintings found by Morgan during the first survey. Walked for about 2 hours and then arrived at broken sandstone piles with ledges. Found a painting of a woman with milk coming from her breasts. Photographed. Then on to find some water par little Wordjamas. All photos taken with 5cm lens at about a metre.
Very hot & tried to set off to find creek. Find creek with a beautiful spring and running "brook" in the valley which disappears under a stone. Find another large rock with serpent, ?kangaroo, line of Wordjamas(?) and a turtle. Photographed. Finished off Kodachromes and started at first shot in next film with turtle[C1]. Back to camp in a bearing of 100*.
Arrived back in camp before sundown. At sundown bats began to fly. Shot one ager, en vale. Ch. rogersi [24]. This bat flew high about 30-40 ft flitting graceful flight, very short duration, all chrappeur(?) about 15-20 mins before last light. Max had collected a uilr(?) of fish, preserved in spirit.
> 21st August 1969 (Thursday)
Set off at 6.30 to walk to the paintings on the top of the hill where we were yesterday and thence to Margin Falls. Made good time up the creek which runs into the Carson(?) to the south of the camp and goes up the hill on a bearing of about 3000* - best way to get into it is to cross the river opposite the rock bar to the south of the camp and then go up diagonally SW across the rock sheet (Petrophagus plentiful) until entry the creek in its sunken edge. At the top of the creek the high point is where the paintings are. Found a further set of "? grasshopper story"
photographed colour and b&w.
Then set off on bearing of 310* and hit a beautiful grassy valley which ran as a bearing of 300-320*. This is the diesel(?) landmarks(?) of Woorakin Creek - the week which we found yesterday with the beautiful pools and falls. In the higher parts they are diesed(?) water-ascendant(?) with occasional pools with lillies and various plants in a grassy surround. Native Companions (a mob of 11) around the pools.
Walked for 2 miles up this valley and then cut into the gorge above Morgan's Falls. Very spectacular : a narrow gorge approx. 280 ft.
Had lunch there and very tasteful for the cool water & shade because feet very bad, ears also troublesome.
Walked back - collecting spiders and a small Ablepharus [28] on the way. Total miles walked about 14 : took us 4 hours to get back. Feet hellish by the end.
Bib repeated his performance again. Started at 5.20 abd over within the 1/2 hour. Very short flying fire. To bed at 19.30.
> 22nd August 1969 (Friday)
Camped at Carson Crossing. Up late at 5.40. Slept like a log. Tried to get through to Kilduck to talk to Seds and to ask Enid if she wanted anything from Perth. No luck. Derby called up after breakfast and told me that Wyndham wanted us at 8.00. Mrs Cooper operator :
Broome "M. English. Alan Wile here. Here everything O.K. Lose Baby". Arranged sched at between 5.30 & 6 tomorrow morning. For Bird Densk(?) Asked for a long call so that we cantune in.
Left camp to drive back to Theda.
Carson River crossing where we camped on the way in. Fence line. Just before this took coloured picture of the escarpment including Face Bluff. Airstrip: Theda
River crossing at homestead
The gorge North of the big pool where we first met Gilbert Deze
Signpost "Theda 14 m." on tree.
MacDonald Creek
Turned off road across blacksoil plain to the left i.e. east of the road, ran along it and into trees and down to a sandstone ridge which parallels the road. Drove up and down the ridge which, from Jack Sofoulis' memory there was a large Wandgina painting. Collected small Amphibolites (?Diporiphora) [29]. This ridge has numerous shelters and excellent Bradshaw figures - took both C and b&w of them. Ticks bad [Drysdale Run 8, photo 0141, 7:6:69]
Left ridge
Arrived back at road MacDonalds Creek 365.4
First turn off the Ridge.
Creek across road [could be a speedo misread]
Brush across road laid by M&D employees to tell us of the presence of a stone amgenst(?) about 100*(Bert says 50-80) to east of road. Not seen by me but Bert Main tells me that it overlaps low sandstone ridge and is made of stones from 9" - 18" in diameter, ring 10 paces x 10 1/2 paces right up to about 12". Pile in centre 5 paces in diameter, Squarish (?) layer E/W turn the other way, more than 1 stone(?) light, i.e. built. 408.8 Crosslands Creek - camped for night. Camped at Crosslands Creek. had a good night, feet much better.
Had a lot of trouble getting through to Enid. In the end got through Everett Burden UKF. Seds needs his camera & it must be sent up on Tuesdays plane at the latest. Something also about a swollen ankle and Margaret not to worry.
Crossed Creek. Doongan Turnoff & mail box.
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